Tatai Sokadalom

Justin and I decided to go to the local folk and craft festival last weekend.  This is the precursor to the larger festival that is here in town now.  Last weekend's festival is called the Sokadalom.  It had lots of little vendors, entertainment, food and lots of people.  Our main goal was to check out the things they were selling - I still want a wicker basket - and to see some students do some folk dance later on Sunday.  We always look into the food that is served as well.

Justin as the fat king

me as a ... princess?

I like the jester the best :)

When in doubt... pickle it...  Ahhhh the Hungarians

"Before" meat... Saturday morning

"After" meat... Sunday evening

All wooden swing - there are four baskets (wicker of course) swinging around, and the two men in the middle are cranking the swings.  It was quite something to watch.

Going away "parade"

Justin is the 5th from the left in the front row- in the light green, not tan.  

The town of Tata threw a "parade" for the soldiers (both Hungarian and American) who are leaving shortly for Afghanistan.  Like usual, none of the Americans really knew what was going on, but I knew I was supposed to be at the Castle at 10:00 to watch.  I initially mocked the idea of a "parade" asking if there were going to be floats and bands and such, but I ended up being surprised.  

It wasn't really for the town, just for the friends and family of the soldiers leaving.  To recap, Justin and the men from Ohio have been working in conjunction with some Hungarian soldiers on a special forces type mission.  I don't know too much about it, but Justin's job as an engineer is to basically understand the ins and outs of large scale weapons, and to clear areas that have been affected by explosions.  It's quite dangerous, but he's had an enormous amount of training and is prepared for the mission.  This is his second time in a combat zone, having served one tour in Iraq.  

At any rate, one of my students read a poem in Hungarian, and the band (yes there was a band) played the national anthems of both nations.

This is the band marching out after the program had finished.  There were many speakers.  High ranking officials from both military forces gave short speeches.  As I was standing watching, next to the families and children of many of the Hungarian troops, I think it finally hit me that this was real.  A man that I have known for only a short time, but have grown to care about very much, is going off to war.  This isn't a news report or a television program - this is my life that is being touched first hand. 

 

These are the top leaders of both sides, the lighter uniforms being Americans.  There are also three religious representatives and off to the side is a translator. 

This is a vehicle that is parked in the "driveway" of the castle.  I was thrilled because I asked Justin if there were going to be tanks and military vehicles, and he doubted it.  Yet, sure enough... here was a big army thing. 

The "parade" was all of 300 meters out and then 300 meters back... around the side of the castle.  There were some other Hungarian representatives from the military so there were more than just the 56 men Justin is training with.  It was nice, but it really made this become a reality for me.  

This whole relationship has been so surreal and not under any normal circumstances, that I sometimes wonder if he's just a figment of my imagination... but with a smile on my face, I remember that he's real - just going off to war.  

Summer in Tata

Well, for the first time in my life, I have found myself with truly a summer "off."  I'm not attending conferences, traveling abroad (as far as I have in the recent past), teaching summer school, doing anything really.  Each day is a new day, but really strikingly similar to the last.  I get up and most days I'll run.  I tell myself that I'm going to study some more Hungarian (has yet to happen).  I watch some old episodes of Frasier, and the CNN loop stories until I can report the stories with better emotion and delivery than the CNN paid anchors.  However, I'd like to say that, while tragic that Michael Jackson died, that's no need to monopolize the CNN loop for days.  I've been listening to the same stories about MJ for the last 28 hours.  

At any rate, last week went fast, almost too fast.  Justin was back in town, and we did our best to spend as much time together as possible.  I'll do a couple short blogs on what we did this week, nothing too exciting, but nice to spend time together.  He left this morning on leave for the US.  He's there for two weeks, then returns to Hungary.  He will be here for three days, and then is off to Afghanistan until the end of February (so far... it will most likely be extended).

Language is a powerful thing

The last two weeks have brought millions of little school children to Tata on field trips.  They ride the small tourist train, take a cruise on the pleasure boat and climb around the castle ruins.  Last week, on my way home from school, there were a couple of little boys playing near the sidewalk I was walking on.  They couldn't have been more than kindergartners or first graders (though I'm terrible at ages).  They were making finger guns and "blowing away" people as they walked down the sidewalk.  I didn't think this was the most appropriate action for these little kids to be doing, and since the teacher was no where to be found- in my own way, I told them this.  I stopped directly next to one of the boys who had just "shot" me and I said my very stern teacher voice "YOU don't scare ME" and walked away leaving this boy scared out of his wits.  I doubt he shot at many more strangers that day.  AHHHHHhhhhhh the English language.

Education isn't perfect... anywhere.

Education isn’t perfect anywhere I guess… I was originally impressed with all aspects of my students here in Hungary.  However, as the “new country” has worn off and I have settled in fully to the job, lifestyle and society here I have been made aware of some things I don’t really agree with. 

Let me start by explaining the education system here as I see it.  The children go to school through the 12^th grade, or as in my school some through the 13^th grade.  Those who are in high school through the 13^th grade are typically in either a German or English bi-lingual program.  The intent of these programs is to make the students fluent in the second language, so it’s set up for 5 years.  At the end of their 12^th (or 13^th year) the students have a series of 5 exams.  From my understanding, they all have to take a mathematics, Hungarian Literature, and history exam.  Then, they can choose two other subjects to take their exams in.  In May, they have the written exams, and in June, they have the oral exam for each corresponding subject.  They have to achieve a certain score on these exams, and depending on how well they do, it dictates which universities they can attend.  So, if they do well on the exams, they can basically choose which University they want to attend.  If they don’t do so well, they will drop to a lower tier of schools they have to choose from.   SO – they have a tremendous amount of pressure on them to do well on these exams as it’s their only ticket to college.  Additionally, they have not had end of the term or year exams since they started high school so they are not prepared for this level of exams. 

The issue I’m running into is that they 12^th graders who will be here for a 13^th year are taking some of the exams early to “get them out of the way.”  It’s fine, but in the mean time, they miss class for several days or the entire week before an exam.  Of course I’m not made aware of their absence, and it throws off the education process in their other classes.  However, they also realize that the classes that best prepare them for these exams are the “most important.”  So, English conversation class, while you’d think it would help them prepare for their English exam, is dropped down to the lower rung of importance.  Having said that, they have selectively chosen which classes they will complete homework for.  My class rarely is the one they do the tasks for.  When asked why they don’t do the homework I’ve assigned, I’ve received responses such as, “It didn’t interest me,” “Oh I’m so sorry Carla, I didn’t have time to do your work” or “I had other lessons to prepare for so I couldn’t complete the work.”  While it’s very polite in nature, it’s crap.  I didn’t have TIME to do your work?  Why not?  I had two students who say through the final exam and one didn’t fill in a thing, and the other marked the same answer for every question.  Seriously?  Then you get a zero.  No problem. 

I began to get very frustrated with this and basically told the 12A students that if they weren’t going to do the work I assigned, I wasn’t going to plan any more for their classes. The last three weeks of school, I attended class, but read a book each time, not bothering to discuss anything or prepare anything for them to do.  I don’t know if my strategy worked or not, but I’ve had some additional homework assignments trickle in during the last week to try and make up for it I suppose.

I thought that with my perspective and experience, it would be easy to teach this class.  However, when I asked what they wanted to do for class, they responded with “watch American films” and “play games.”  I’m a better teacher than one who plays games for class, so this made me a bit upset that this was what they wanted to do with my time.  At any rate there is a certain sense of entitlement among students – world wide – that is really frustrating.  It’s not any better in the states, but it amazes me that a student has the nerve to tell their teacher that the homework they assigned “didn’t interest them” and that is why it isn’t finished.  In the United States, students are torn between school, work, extra-curriculars and friends.  Here, they aren’t allowed to work during the week, but they have almost as many things to keep them busy.  However, they are still students first in my mind.  Hopefully some time soon they will learn that they have opportunities that they should not pass up in life, and having a well rounded education is one of them. 

Below is my end of the year letter I passed out to my students of this particular class that I speak of.  I wrote it, with the editing help of my parents, to try and get a message across that they had better be ready for next year.  I hope the message gets across.

------------------------------------------------------------

Dear 12 A – 2008/2009,

            When I started getting information about my placement in Tata, I had no idea that it would lead to where I am today.  I was expecting that I would struggle teaching those who knew little English, and really be able to do amazing things with those who were close to fluent in English.  I found actuality to be more the opposite though.  My 9^th graders are eager to learn anything they can from dances & songs to culture to current events to American History, while many of my 12^th and 13^th grade students didn’t seem to “value” many of the activities I planned.  This made for a very difficult year here at Eötvös.

            I came here to teach non-native English speakers about my country, my culture and most importantly, my language.  I also came here to learn - about your country, your culture, and your language.  While I have embraced many things Hungarian, I have also learned that I need to be much more explicit in my expectations for classes next year if I am required to work with your group. 

I am not sure if it is a cultural difference, or the students trying to pull one over on the “American teacher,” but excuses like “I didn’t have time to do your tasks” and “it didn’t really interest me” don’t work for me.  Not taking the final exam, or turning the test in blank or without any effort - your grade will reflect that it is not an acceptable practice for my class.  Though you may not understand my reasoning for giving you the assignments I do, this is not a 50-50 relationship.  Ultimately, I’m the teacher, and it’s your job to be the student.   

            I don’t expect you to like everything I assign, but know that I’m not doing it to “embitter” students or because I think my class is most important; do I think it’s important, yes… most important?  Probably not, but I put a lot of time and energy into what I do.  You have an opportunity that many other students in this country don’t have, the chance to work closely with a native English speaker.  It is my feeling that many of you think that you know enough English already; how wrong you are.  I hope you NEVER stop learning, whatever it may be – and since you’re in a bi-lingual language program, I hope you never stop seeking out new ways to learn English.  It is not entirely your fault that the “native speaker class” has become one that is “not as important” as the others.  That is the result of other teachers not expecting more of you and you not wanting additional challenges and homework.  Students with your ability and intellect should demand that the native teacher expose you to more challenging things, even if it means doing homework – or why would you invest the time in becoming fluent in English?  It’s embarrassing that you don’t expect more of the native speaker.  Additionally, it’s an insult to me that you think the best activities for us to do are games of Boggle and to watch American films.  I have a Masters Degree in Education and Curriculum Instruction – I know how to plan activities to make a class interesting.  You said yourselves that you were aware right away that I was very different from some of your previous native teachers, yet you didn’t adjust to meet my new set of expectations, that doesn’t make sense. 

            For the most part, I have enjoyed working with your group.  Until recently you were the main reason I decided to come back next year.  I enjoy you as people and learning about things Hungarian from you.  However, as students, you leave much to be desired.  There is no question that you are a smart group of individuals, but in life, it’s not your turn to be selectively intelligent right now.  Save that for when you get into University.  Right now, take time to soak up what your teachers are teaching you, from the book or not.  Obviously, my frustration is not directed at all of you, for there are some students who have really worked hard.  I appreciate that, and I hope you benefited from my teaching. 

            Life is about attitude, and right now, I don’t have the best attitude toward your class as a result of the lack of effort from some of you that I have seen recently.  I also think that some of you probably have a negative attitude towards me and the classes I teach.  Thankfully, the summer is almost here, and we all have a chance to re-visit our attitudes for a new start to the next year.  Be ready in the fall as my expectations will not change.  However, I will come with a better laid out plan that you can choose to follow at your own level, earning whatever grade you receive.  This will give you the chance to better involve yourself in your education as you see fit. 

            Thank you for all you have taught me this year, my experience here is making me a better teacher.  I value your opinion, thoughts and perspective, so please feel free to contact me if you wish.  Also, I still don’t have any real friends here, so if you’re bored this summer, feel free to call or e-mail.

Have a good summer!

Carla, the Native Speaker  J

castaffa@yahoo.com

 

I want to teach my students more than lessons in a book; 


I want to teach them deeper things that people overlook... 


The value of a rose in bloom, Its use and beauty too; 


A sense of curiosity to discover what is true; 


How to think and how to choose the right above the wrong; 


How to live and learn each day and grow up to be strong; 


To teach them always how to gain in wisdom and in grace; 


So they will someday make the world a brighter, better place. 


 Let me be the friend and guide to give these minds a start... 


Upon their way down life's long road then I'll have done my part.

~Written by Jim Wolf

NEVER leave your apartment without the camera

If you enlarge the picture (by clicking on it) you can see Boo peeking down from the middle balcony  :)

The Horse and carriage rolling down my not so scenic street.

It's only 10:15 here in scenic Tata, and what a day I've had already.  I got up and ventured to the hair salon to "make an appointment" for later today.  It was the first time I went in the shop and did not immediately brandish a note written by one of my students saying that I .  I didn't even have a security note in my pocket incase things went awry... I did it all on my own.  I was told to come back at 9:30.  Great - I'd have time to get in a quick run (and by quick I mean short, not fast) shower and return to the hair salon just in time.  As I returned home, I passed many street vendors selling flowers from their yards and cherries from their trees.  They were what I would call "typical Hungarian neni's" (old women) wearing nylons, open comfortable sandals, a skirt and mis-matched dress top, a vest and a handkerchief around the head.  I stopped and watched as a man and his small child bought a small boquet of daises, exchanging about $2.00 pleasing both sides of the transaction equally.  I changed and set off on my run, forgetting water and my radio in the process.  I can't remember the last time I ran without music, but perhaps it was all a part of my taking time to smell the roses in Tata.  

I set off on my run, and went a different way than usual.  I headed toward the castle and as I got close, I noticed a figure walking in a long black cape, or robe, I'm not sure.  Oh boy, I knew this was a sign that whatever I encountered next was not going to be normal.  I rounded the gate to the castle, and the first people I saw were three large men carrying what seemed to be bows for arrow shooting.  I got deeper into the castle grounds, and saw that there were targets all over the place and many more bow and arrow shooters.  There were also people in costume, from what era I'm not sure.  It seemed that there was a type of shooting show going on, along with lay people shooting also.  I kept on and turned down the path that circled the lake.  As I kept running, I noticed once again, that there are many dogs with their owners walking around the lake.  The dogs here are very well behaved.  Having a leash is not necessary, but most owners carry them just in case.  They wander about and seem to take some ownership to the town.  There are also many abandoned dogs and cats, but even in their state of homelessness, the people of Tata feed them and make sure they are healthy.  

I started back on my run and passed a large tent that was to house a music festival that is happening today.  There wasn't any action yet, but rest assured, it will be interesting.  Following my run, I returned to the hair salon primed and ready for my hair cut.  I managed to walk my way through what I "wanted" to have done to my hair - which incidentally is always different than what I get - but hey... I don't speak the language, so it's on me.  I now have shorter hair once again, and decided to wander around looking at the offerings of the Saturday morning stalls and shops.  I purchased a few small things, but mostly just watched people.  I eventually wandered home and on the way said hi to the fruit and vegetable lady who ALWAYS greets me, passed my downstairs (formerly crabby) neighbor who is now my friend and greeted her, and as I turned on to my street, I was surprised once again.  Up the street came a horse drawn carriage holding a family of four.  There were two horses, and a baby horse in tow.  I don't know what the horse rides are for, or why they're doing them, but hey - when in Tata, I don't question.  

I have learned a lot about myself, about people and societies, about different cultures while living here in small Tata.  I have grown and matured into a person who is different than when I came.  I'm sure I'll write more specific musings at a later time, but I will be very sad when I have to leave, that's for sure.  I learned today that I need to take more time on Saturday mornings and just get out to see what's going on - and damnit, I need a wicker basket to carry my goods in.  

I'm off to Papa to visit Megan for the night - enjoy your Saturday.

The famous "Night Watchman's Tour"

Despite the rocky start, I arrived in Rothenburg ob der Tauber unscathed.  I was lucky to find a room in town because there was a huge medieval festival taking place.  It’s an annual festival and draws tons of people, so finding a place wasn’t easy – but I was right near the train station and only about 300 meters from the entrance to the walled medieval city.  I got off the train at 6:48 and was checked into my room and on my way to the old city by 7:00.

Rothenburg has an interesting history since it has mostly survived as it was in the early 1300s.  The original settlement was there ein the 900’s, expanding to a whopping 6,000 inhabitants in the 1300s.  It was the largest city in the area and was well protected as a result of the wall that surrounds it and the bad ass Germans who inhabited it.  One other source of protection was the Night Watchmen who roamed the city during the night and warned the towns folk of any looming danger.  As per recommendation of my mother (I think she was sending me to do some scouting because she would like to travel here in the near future) I took the “Night Watchmen’s” tour.  It was lead by a British guy with quite a character that he has built for himself.  When people think of Rothenburg, they know the Night Watchman- he’s been on the History Channel and the Travel Channel.  He told interesting bits of information about the city, and I laughed out loud several times.  I’d tell you some of the things he said, but I’d rather have you travel there and experience him yourself.  The one thing I will tell you is that there was a restaurant in town named “hell” and he got quite a bit of mileage telling us about it and legitimately encouraging us to “go to hell.”

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

I'm trying something new here - I put the pictures, then the story explaining the pictures... I hope it's easy to follow.

When I first got into the city, I wasn’t sure what to do with myself.  It’s a bit like a Disneyworld for medieval fans, minus the rides and personable animal characters.  There were characters in Rothenburg though, let me tell you.  As a result of the three day festival, people involved in the activities went all out in their uniforms.  There were different groups who dressed in similar outfits.  Some were performers- there was singing and drumming, some were military types with obvious weapons, some were all women perhaps “servicing” the other men who were there – but one thing was consistent, they were ALL drunk.  I suppose when in Rome…   

I got up the next day and went to breakfast at about 8:30 and much to my surprise, there was a group of these characters in the restaurant of the hotel.  They were singing, and sharing a big stein of beer.  What?  It’s 8:30… I had my European breakfast (sandwich and yogurt with muslei) and went on my way to the town.  As I got into the town wall, I realized that there was some normalcy to the drinking and singing I had just witnessed.  Each different group of characters were visiting each and every store and restaurant in town.  At each place they stopped, they were fed alcohol of some sort- either beer, or glasses of wine, I saw some just giving out bottles of liquor to the group.  It was a bit like the school-leavers serenade, but instead of chocolate chip cookies, they got alcohol.  I have to admit, some of the groups could actually sing, but some were horrible- but seemed to think that they got better with more alcohol.

I decided to go up in the tower accessible to tourists that morning.  As I climbed the first set of stairs and walked along the ramparts of the wall, I came across close the last thing I thought I would see while on a wall built more than 600 years ago.  In the main tower on the level one could walk along the wall, was a room that someone apparently lived in.  It was grafittied (if that is a word) in a way that suggested it was not done by vandals but an artist.  I also spotted a bed and a computer.  Someone apparently lives in the wall.  It was strange to see but I guess it takes all kinds.  

I thought this was quite a juxtaposition – the chainmail clad soldier using a digital camera…

This is a picture of one of the city gates – the door in the middle is called a “man hole” for people who returned to the city after curfew.  They were fined heavily, but it worked because security wasn’t risked by opening the entire door late at night.  Also, those entering the town via the “man hole” did so in a compromising position so if they were actually trying to attack the town, it would be very difficult entering in this vulnerable position.  The door is an original from 1556, but the wall is older than that, so it’s technically the “new” door. 

I toured the old city vaults, which were surprisingly above ground.  I guess I envisioned vaults to be underground.  At any rate, in each of 15 vaults there were mannequins dressed in different levels of nobility from doctor to the highest rank.  There were also historic relics on display from the long tenure of Rothenburg as a town.  The creepy part was when you actually got to go underground to where the torture chamber and jail cells were.  The mannequins were extra creepy down there, and the general feeling was a bit more eery.  It was cool, but I was glad to return to the warm sunshine of the cobblestone streets.  

 

Lunchtime brought about an interesting dilemma for a single traveler.  I wanted to sit outside at a table that lined one of the streets so I could watch people.  However, I’m sure it’s frowned upon to occupy an entire table with just one person at the height of the lunch hour.  I finally stopped at a place and snuck into a table for two right along the street.  Well, I managed to pick an Italian restaurant.  Really?  I’m in Germany eating Italian food?  Yeesh.  It was very good – and I had a local beer as well.  Because of the demand for tables, a nice German couple joined me and though we didn’t speak, we all sat closely together at the table for two – all three of us.  It wasn’t bad, and I noticed because of my close proximity to the street many a German walked by and wished me a “guten appetite.”  Are we the only society that doesn’t wish a good meal to total strangers – or each other for that matter?

After lunch I was just in time for the Shepherd’s Dance being performed in the main square.  I got there a bit late so I didn’t have a real good view, but here are some pictures. 

I toured the gardens of the (former) castle and then went to Toppler’s Castle afterwards.  It’s a cute little house that the governor of Rothenburg lived in at one point.  I don’t know much about it because the explanations were all in German, but it was a nice trek off the beaten path.  

When I returned to the walled city, I was just in time for the big parade of all the groups.  I again didn’t have a very good view, but it was interesting to watch all the groups on their horses and pulling their wagons.  I tell you – I was totally overwhelmed by this city – mostly because of the festival.  However, at any given moment, there was drumbeats, singing, costumed actors, horses or some sort of action coming from every direction.  I can’t speak for what Rothenburg is like on a normal day, or a summer weekend, but it was truly an interesting experience. 

L-R: Mark, John, Preston and Josh

After the fanfare of the day, I decided to try and find a GERMAN place to eat, so I opted for a restaurant across from the Italian one I had eaten at earlier.  It was “serendipitious” as Josh said, because I ran into a group of American men in Germany on business.  I heard them speaking English and asked if they’d eaten there.  They hadn’t yet, they were just having drinks, but planned to eat there.  They invited me to join them for drinks, and I of course took the opportunity.  They were very nice- John, Preston, Mark and Josh, and it was nice to not have to sit by myself while enjoying the people on the street.  They were southerners, from North Carolina, and boy did they sound like it.  Though they frowned on being in public with a Yankee, I assured them that I was good company.  John worked for a German company and was trying to sell some sort of printing machine to the other three guys.  So, as a result of crashing their dinner engagement, I became a casualty of the (seemingly never ending) expense account John had.  All my drinks – (five over the course of the evening- 4+ hours) and my dinner – in addition to cake and another glass of wine at a different restaurant were paid for by whomever John works for (easily over 60 Euro worth of food).  In return, I vowed to research one of his multimillion dollar printing press machines… yeah right.  Each of us had a varying form of asparagus for dinner.  It’s evidently asparagus season in Germany – I don’t know if it’s just this area but they are known for their asparagus and there is about a 30 day window that we were smack in the middle of.  There was asparagus soup, asparagus shrimp cocktail, asparagus with sirloin and other choices of meat; I had an asparagus noodle soufflé.  The asparagus page on the menu had many different types of it – I have never seen so many choices!  It was a little Forrest Gump like – baked asparagus, boiled asparagus, asparagus with meat, asparagus with shrimp, asparagus soup… etc.  Delicious none-the-less.  

There was a little excitement while we were having dinner – the police, fire department and ambulance raced by, in three different directions at different times.  Evidently there had been a call to emergency services that there was a gas smell somewhere, but the responders weren’t quite sure where it was.  Though amusing at the time, if someone called and it was a prank, it’s a hefty fine for doing so – hopefully everything was taken care of.  

Monday morning was departure time.  I decided to take an earlier train, and skipped the Euro breakfast because there was a Burger King not to far from where I was staying.  I know, frown…. But I needed something greasy after the night of alcohol that I had… so I paid, said no thanks to the breakfast and headed to the Burger King.  I was going to catch the 9:06 train and had just over a half hour to get to BK and to the station.  Well, wouldn’t you know it, the BK didn’t open until 10.  Seriously… Serves me right I suppose, being in a European country heading to the Burger King…. So I had McDonalds at the Nurnberg train station instead J