Hungary 2008!!: 2009

Thursday, December 31, 2009

Subway etiquette...

So after another day in Budapest, I am wondering what the written, or unwritten social rules are regarding the subway. For example, there are the worlds longest escalators going up and down to and from the bowels of the Budapest metro system. Where do you look? Conveniently, there are advertisements that line the walls, but once they start repeating, do you keep reading? When they are in a foreign language, do you pretend you can understand them? In addition, at least in Budapest, you are standing at an awkward angle so it seems as if you have to lean forward for fear of falling backwards. Can you look at the people across the way who are going down as you go up? Is that ok to do? What if someone makes eye contact with you -then what do you do? How awkward? No one is talking, no one is moving - we're all zombies in our own thoughts going up or down... heading who knows where.

What about when you're actually ON the subway car? When you are standing, it's most likely because there isn't any room on the benches. Hopefully you're not standing right over someone who is sitting - right at their knees - because that can really make things awkward. I try to look past the person sitting opposite me - as if I'm watching the scenery? out the windows (the black walls of the metro system passing by- yeah I'm really watching that). I often am drawn to the "fashion" of Hungarians, but I've been caught looking enough times to feel uncomfortable about ever looking up while riding the metro. The whole experience is just a bit freaky for me. If anyone knows appropriate behavior for where to look while in the metro system, please let me know!!!

A statue at one of the metro stops in Budapest

One last trip to Budapest

I recently took a day and spent it in Budapest trying to tick some of my "to-do's" off my list - it has things I want to do before I leave the country. I was thrilled because I went to five very different places in Budapest and didn't need a map or directions in the least. Finally, I'm getting the hang of this city, and it's time to leave. Dang. I thoroughly enjoyed the day exploring, stocking up on all things Hungarian, and looking at the beautiful city for one of the last times. I'm going to miss this magnificent city...

Great market wares

inside the great market

Hungarian colored paprika

peppers and grapefruits - what a Christmas combination

Great market

Great market - notice all the pigeons sitting on the ledges - ew.

Great market

the Freedom bridge and the Gellert Hotel in the background

a statue

the hand made folk craft store I bought some things in - as it turns out - most of the things I bought this day were the exact same things my mom purchased while she was here: felt ornaments, embroidered towels, trendy purses - ok, she didn't get a trendy purse, but you know what I mean.

the elf and the Buda Castle in the background

playing chess at the Christmas Market

My homies at the train station

There certainly is a distinct smell this time of year once you enter the Tata train station. It originates from the homeless people who find refuge in the station at night when it's cold out side. While many people in the community scoff at the homeless here, they don't deserve to be treated that way. I don't know why they ended up homeless, but I can't imagine it was as a result of desire to be homeless.

On several occasions, the homeless have been MORE than polite to me here. They have warned me not to waste my money in a broken coffee machine, they have held doors for me, smiled and greeted me with a "have a good journey" among other positive interactions. While admittedly, I'm more cautious with my possessions around the homeless, they have never done anything to harm me and are just shy of pleasant to encounter. It's a shame that the stigma is so negative, because I'm certain they all have different things to offer the community and country.

World's ugliest dog?

I think this could be the ugliest dog in the world - certainly in Tata... that's for sure. His owner walks him all the time - usually without the sweater, but still... it's ugly.

Megan's in town!

Megan and Boo

Having a "heart to heart" with Boo

Boo's new favorite trick - to push my face away using her foot. Not so nice if you ask me :(

Coffe at Kati and Istváns

I have wanted for some time to connect my friend Megan with Kati and István (the 67 year old private student and artist) and the holidays was the time to do it. Megan came to visit for a couple days - and instead of taking an entire day to have a lunch or dinner with them, we settled on coffee one morning. It was really nice because their "daughter" Jee was here visiting too. Kati and István met Jee in Portugal when they were doing an artist workshop one summer. Jee is Korean and a dancer/choreographer. So all three are artists, as is Megan, it was perfect.

István was in (not so) rare form again - though this time he was not drunk when we arrived :) We sat down after introductions and they told us about their christmas at a castle with other artists. It was difficult to converse because István struggles to get his English out, and Kati never stops talking, even if you're talking to her at the same time. Insert Jee who is telling us about life as a dancer and poor Megan who didn't know any of them. I felt like it was possible to get whiplash while trying to follow the conversation.

After a while, István produced Christmas gifts for me - AND - Megan. It was quite a surprise. One of them is a felt wall hanging that is hand embroidered - it was taken off the wall of Kati's parents' home. It was beautiful, but an odd gift I thought - from her childhood house. Megan and I both received plates also - that clearly were also removed from the walls of someone's home. While thoughtful, it was unnecessary. We had a nice chat and the morning was well spent. When we had to get going, I told everyone I wanted to take some pictures - and it was quite a funny ordeal! Check 'em out!

Some sort of weird photo shoot - I told them to "get together" and this is what resulted...

Jee, Kati, me and István

the "cookbook" István made for me - he (as a graphic artist) made the design on the to. He told me that the middle of the swirl is my heart "part Hungarian, part American"

the "cook book" is bound and has only four recipes in it, and I don't know that I'll be actually able to make any of them. If you look at the writing - the translation is a bit weird, but SO sweet that he took the time to do this for me.

The best nativity scene in the WORLD

Here is the full group - oddly they aren't in the area of the church they were last year, they are actually tucked up under a tree and I didn't even see them until two days ago...

the three wise men? I like the yarn beards - and what's with the hair?

Please notice the paper face - that's stapled into the log. Last year, they were painted... I LOVE this country and their creativity.

Christmas gifts

I was lucky enough to receive many special gifts from school for Christmas. The tradition I experienced here is to give a honey cookie (similar to gingerbread) for gifts to friends and teachers. I have pictures here of several of the cookies here. Even after a year and a half, I haven't learned all of the traditions though - including the procedure for after you receive a gift - the double kiss. I was approached by several students to hand me their gift, and after I graciously accepted it, they stood there awkwardly. I initially thought it was because they had just given a gift to the teacher and everyone saw... but really they were waiting for me to cue them to lean in and give me the double kiss. Oh well - what's fun about it if life isn't a bit awkward? I also gave out cookies to some people for Christmas - special "American" chocolate chip cookies. They were a hit!!!

My mom and dad brought over several "Minnesota" ornaments that I was able to use to adorn my gifts of chocolate chip cookies.

the honey cookes

one with the colors of the Hungarian flag on it - red, white and green

the back of the "Hungarian" colors cookie- "Merry Christmas" [from] Liza 2009

a card from 10A - hand made by one of the students - the 10A class also had a special surprise for me. One of the students told me that they needed me in their classroom during a break, and as I entered, all the students were standing, candles were lit and they busted into a rousing version of "We Wish You a Merry Christmas." It was very nice and thoughtful of them.

Christmas fish

One of the most traditional Christmas meals is the famous Hungarian fish soup. In order to make the fish soup (often times with the head and other main parts of the fish intact in the mix) one has to purchase fish - and live ones are best. This was a group selling fish on Christmas eve in the TESCO parking lot. Though I passed up the opportunity to purchase the fish, I did stop for a quick photo.

Last trip to Győr

Megan and I met one last time in Győr to go shopping before Christmas. I was sad since it would be our last rendezvous in a place that has become so familiar to both of us. At any rate, there was a small Christmas market that we poked around in, and ultimately we ended up at the mall. We did however, accomplish the all important task of finding lángos and a kurtos kalacs (the chimney cake) for lunch. Here I am outside of a divine lángos stand with both the lángos and kurtos kalacs in hand. How much better could life get?

Oh boo...

I'm not sure how she sleeps like this, but she looks even more fat than she really is..

New favorite spot - in the comforter at the end of the couch

really? How does one sleep like this?

Which one of these objects doesn't belong on the book shelf? Hmmm...

Learning to climb? Uh-oh... beware mom and dad...

Snow scenes

Creepy santas crawl up the balcony here in Hungary?!

The castle

SJB with a partially frozen lake

The widely accepted form of transportation come winter... the old school sled!!

My school in all it's wintery glory - too bad all the snow melted in one day!

Winter is here?

The advent wreath at the round about

the clock tower

the Tata Dream Team out shoveling

the mail is delivered - rain sleet snow or shine :)

Friday, December 25, 2009

Vienna Christmas Markets 2009 again

On Sunday before my train back to Tata, we hit up two more Christmas markets. It was freezing cold out - 28 degrees and I certainly did not have enough warm clothes to be wandering throughout the open city, but we did it anyway.